Mathew Hegarty

At home, we didn’t really cook much, my father usually brought home pizza or some other take-away. My brother had a job in a restaurant, and when I was 13, he suggested I join him there; but it was really so I could do the washing up while he did the cooking! Ultimately though, although I went to art school, I’m the one who has ended up in the kitchen, while my brother joined the army. My father is always happy when I come home to cook for him. He loves it when we barbecue together and I show him new cooking techniques.

For Australians, France is the land of good food. Everyone knows the French make the best cooks. They don’t eat to live, they live to eat, and I love that. Being in France is a dream come true.

It was like a comedy show. That first day, I worked from 7am to 3pm, then left, saying I’d see everyone tomorrow. Someone answered “à t’taleur” (“laters”). I didn’t know what that meant, and when I realised I had to be back at 5pm, I was totally shocked. But actually, I quite enjoyed the military strictness of it all; it was a challenge. If I wanted to stay, I just had to do the same as everyone else.

When I arrived, it was as the first time I’d ever seen snow. But I’m from a surfing, skateboarding culture, so I bought myself a snowboard, and now I’m in love with the mountains.

I’m still not that familiar with all the French cheeses, but I love the blue ones. They’ve got real character.

There are a few Australian cheeses, Tasmanian Blue being one of them, but they’re quite unusual and very expensive. People don’t eat them at the end of a meal, but more as an appetiser, maybe with oysters. When I got the call from Sweet Cheese, I thought it would almost be too easy. I’ve never been part of that whole French cheese culture, so I’ve always felt free to do my own thing – and that includes dessert. My tasting menu always features a cooked cheese dish, maybe a crème brûlée made with the local Bleu du Vercors- Sassenage and served with chicory sorbet. For Sweet Cheese, I used Bleu d’Auvergne to make cheesecake and ice-cream, but I added a few touches of home – eucalyptus, Tasmanian pepper, wattle seeds and wood-sorrel leaves. As a dessert, it’s both powerful and fresh.