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Faites du Brie !

Easy Briezy

There isn’t just one type of Brie – there are plenty of variations. Brie de Meaux (which can be truffled) and Brie de Melun are the best known, and the only two to have PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) status; but there’s also Brie de Montereau, Nangis or Provins, not to mention the distinctive Brie Noir (Black Brie), which is aged for 6-12 months. The two PDO Bries are made from whole, unpasteurised cow’s milk and manufactured in the eastern part of the Paris basin - Seine-et-Marne and part of Yonne and Aube for Brie de Melun, and part of Marne, Meuse and Haute-Marne for Brie de Meaux. The milk is seeded with rennet, and the resulting curd is cut, sliced or stirred to bring the whey to the surface, then cast into moulds and drained. After draining, the cheese is turned out. The wheels (27-28 cm for Melun and 36-37 cm for Meaux) are salted with dry salt, sprayed with penicillin to give a bloomy rind, and matured for 4-8 weeks (Meaux) or 4-12 weeks (Melun).

  • 4
  • 1 h 30 min
  • 45 min

Ingredients

  • For the apple tuile
  • 1 Granny Smith apple
  • For the lime powder
  • 1 lime
  • For the rice pudding
  • 1 l milk
  • 5 tbsps sugar
  • 250 g Brie de Meaux
  • 100 g Arborio rice
  • For the apple glaze
  • 40 leaves of gelatine
  • ½ litre water
  • ½ litre apple juice
  • For the tuile batter
  • 2 egg whites
  • 65 g butter
  • 125 g icing sugar
  • 65 g flour
  • To assemble (Quantities to taste)
  • 1 Granny Smith apple
  • Olive oil
  • 1 lime
  • Salt, pepper
  • 1 punnet pea shoots
  • Edible tagette flowers

Method

The day before, make the apple tuile and lime powder

 

  1. Using a mandoline, slice the apple thinly, place on a baking tray and dry in the oven overnight, at 50°C.
  2. With a peeler, remove the lime zest and dry in the oven overnight at 50°C.

 

Cook the rice pudding

 

  1. Boil the milk with the sugar and the Brie.
  2. Add the rice and lower the heat.
  3. Simmer over a gentle heat until the milk in the pan is level with the rice.
  4. Cool.

 

Apple glaze

 

  1. Soak the gelatine in cold water for 5 mins to soften.
  2. Remove the softened gelatine leaves and drain, gently squeezing out any excess water.
  3. Dissolve over a low heat and set aside to cool.
  4. Heat up the water and apple juice and add the dissolved gelatine.
  5. Cool.

 

Make the tuile batter

 

  1. Blend all the ingredients in a Pacojet (professional grade ice-cream maker/blender), or whisk together in a round-bottomed basin to make a smooth dough.
  2. Spread over a non-stick baking mat and with a cookie-cutter, cut out 4 circles, 4 cm in diameter.

 

Milk foam

 

  1. Strain the cooked, cooled rice (step 2) through a sieve.
  2. Set the rice aside, and place the milk into a siphon.
  3. Charge with 1 cartridge to make soft clouds of foam on the plate. Set aside.

 

Make rice pudding spheres

 

  1. Use a mould to make spheres of rice pudding.
  2. Prick the spheres all over with a cocktail stick and place in the freezer.
  3. When frozen, soak each sphere individually with the apple glaze at 23°C.

 

To assemble

 

  1. Arrange 3 rice spheres on a plate to make a semicircle.
  2. Add 2 circles of tuile batter, one between the spheres and the other placed against the middle sphere.
  3. Slice the apple using a mandoline.
  4. Season with olive oil and a few drops of lime; add a pinch of salt and pepper.
  5. Top with apple chips and apple slices.
  6. To finish, garnish with pea shoots and tagette flowers.

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Beatriz Gonzalez

Beatriz Gonzalez has all but lived in kitchens since she was 7 years old. The first was her parents’ kitchen on the paradise island of Cozumel off the eastern coast of Mexico, where, after leaving the armed forces, her father gave up his previous life to open a top-flight restaurant. Beatriz also threw herself into the new venture. But everything changed when she was 17 and her father sent her to France to study at the Institut Paul Bocuse. She fell in love not only with French cuisine, but also with Matthieu Marcant, who went on to become her husband. He is also her business associate in the two restaurants she now runs in Paris, Neva Cuisine and Coretta. Having trained under Pierre Orsi in Lyon, Alain Senderens at Lucas Carton and Frédéric Robert at La Grande Cascade, Beatriz favours a gourmet bistro style of cooking. Between services, she often snacks on cheese – a piece of Salers, or Comté. A true Mexican, fashioned by France.

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