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France

Bristol’s pastry chef has dreamed of pursuing this vocation for as long as he can remember. Rather than stories about monsters, he would read books about cakes and marvel at the photographs of fraisiers (strawberry cakes). LAURENT JEANNIN worked at the Hôtel de Crillon 25 years ago with Éric Frechon in the kitchen and the two were reunited at the Bristol in 2007. His professional path has also taken him to Pierre Hermé, Japan and George V. His desserts exhibit an interest in light flavours, textures and the harmonisation of tastes. He is always looking to make something new and sets his creative objectives within the scope of gustatory pleasure.

What role does cream play in your patisserie?
Laurent Jeannin :

It is a vector of indulgence, a binding agent. It’s unctuous and enhances everything. Pure, elegant and noble, it provides body and, despite its rich qualities, lightens every recipe. With its ability to incorporate air, it’s a fat that combines with other elements. Cream is a fabulous product that invites creativity: flavouring, colouring, making a sauce, etc.

What preparations do you make with cream?
Laurent Jeannin :

Each type of cream has its own qualities. It’s a living product, which is both an advantage and an inconvenience: after 10 minutes, Chantilly gets flat again (unless you use stabilised creams that are common in warmer climates). What you have with crème fleurette (liquid heavy cream) is purity. Sometimes, depending upon the taste that it has, we cut it with another cream. Double cream is put into cakes. It brings a flavour that’s different from butter, less fat; a slightly bitter taste that gives a certain acidity to the cake. This works with a lot of flavours like chocolate, pistachio, lemon and praline. Only banana is not very receptive.

Short cake is indulgent, regressive, practical and is a treat at your fingertips!
What are its usages?
Laurent Jeannin :

It can be used in a lot of ways. Heated in sauces or ganaches. Combined lightly with mascarpone to give a better hold to mousses. On the Saint-Honoré (Chiboust cream, vanilla, caramel base with demi-sel butter and whipped crème fleurette with 10% mascarpone), the butterfat content was increased so that it became slightly heavier, and for there to be a stronger molecular bond. The cream makes it possible to lighten a mousse while providing an indulgent element that is not greasy. Even a lemon cream lightened with whipped cream is very good. However, the bond doesn’t work with uncooked lemon or juice.

Which of your creations best celebrates cream?
Laurent Jeannin :

I especially like shortcake (a very light biscuit, soaked lightly in a little bit of strawberry coulis, a cream dessert with whipped cream and a flavouring). But ever since I was little, I’ve loved the spray Chantilly that you can buy at the store! Mix together red fruits, a dribble of lemon juice, sugar, and allow to infuse for 5 minutes, then add the spray Chantilly! It’s indulgent, regressive, practical and is a treat at your fingertips!

Would you say that you love cream, love it passionately or love it madly?
Laurent Jeannin :

Really, I love it madly!

What is your signature cake with cream?
Laurent Jeannin :

Shortcake, which I find especially beautiful with its satiny whiteness. The water of the fruit counterbalances the strawberry preserve and the creamy element of the whipped cream; it’s acidic and fruity.

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BRISTOL

Paris 8e

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