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Français It’s said that Charlemagne (742-814) loved it, and we have reliable evidence that in 1411 Charles VI declared it a rich treasure from a barren land; Roquefort cheese has its roots in Roquefort-sur-Soulzon, and is made in caves underneath the Combalou Plateau, in the depths of the rocky scree bordering the Grands Causses. With protected status since 1925 and PDO status since 1996, this famous blue-veined cheese is manufactured in a precisely-defined area which includes the Aude, Aveyron, Gard, Hérault, Lozère and Tarn, from the milk of Lacaune sheep. The unpasteurised whole milk is heated and curdled; after cutting and stirring, the firm curd is seeded with penicillium and turned 5 times a day to drain. It is then salted, pierced with needles and finally matured for a minimum of 3 months, spending at least 14 days unwrapped in the natural caves at Roquefort.
Roqu’n’choc
Roque around the choc
recipe from chef Harry Cummins- 2
- 2 h
- 1 h
Ingredients
- For the sorbet
- 310 g beetroots
- 270 g water
- 30 g dextrose
- 125 g caster sugar
- 2 g stabiliser (of vegetable origin)
- 50 ml beetroot juice
- 85 ml lime juice
- For the chocolate and Roquefort foam
- 20 ml milk
- 60 g cream (35% fat content)
- 10 g chestnut honey
- 35 g 75% chocolate
- 20 g Roquefort
- 1½ egg whites
- For the semi-dried beetroot
- 60 g of the beetroot prepared for the sorbet
- 5 g Roquefort
- 15 ml water
- 15 g caster sugar
- For the poached quince
- 500 g quince
- 100 g caster sugar
- 400 ml water
- For the cacao tuile
- 5 g unsalted butter
- 5 ml water
- 7½ g cacao nibs
- 5 g flour
- 15 g icing sugar
Method
Make the beetroot sorbet
- Wipe the beetroot and place in a deep, ovenproof dish.
- Add water to 1/3 of the way up, then season with salt and sugar, cover tightly with aluminium foil and roast in the oven at 170°C for about an hour, until tender.
- Cool, and rub off the skins.
- Setting aside 60 g for the semi-dried beetroot, puree the remaining 250 g and chill.
- Place the dextrose and caster sugar in a pan with the water, heat to 40°C and sprinkle on the stabiliser, whisking constantly for around 5 mins.
- Heat to 84°C.
- As soon as it reaches temperature, remove from the heat and cool.
- Add the pureed beetroot, beetroot juice and sugar syrup to the lime juice.
- Freeze.
Make the chocolate and Roquefort foam
- Boil the milk, cream and butter.
- Pour onto the chocolate and whisk until melted and glossy.
- Add the Roquefort, and continue whisking. Add the egg whites and pour into the siphon.
- Charge with 2 cartridges. Chill in the fridge for abour 1 hour.
Make the dried beetroot
- Peel the cooked beetroot and chop into fingers.
- Place the Roquefort in a bowl.
- Boil the water with the sugar and pour onto the Roquefort; leave to cool.
- When cool enough, strain through a sieve or piece of muslin.
- Once the beetroot has cooled, soak the fingers in the Roquefort syrup, place on a baking tray and dry in the oven at 60°C for 4 hours.
Poach the quince
- Peel and core the quince and cut into wedges.
- Boil up the syrup and add the quince.
- Poach until tender and leave to cool in the syrup.
Make the cacao tuile
- Place the butter and water in a saucepan and bring to the boil.
- Pour over the dry ingredients (cacao nibs, flour and icing sugar).
- Whisk together until smooth then place teaspoonfuls of the mixture on a baking tray and bake in the oven for 7-8 mins at 200°C.
To assemble
- Dice the quince and dried beetroot and place in a small bowl.
- Add a scoop of beetroot sorbet and top with Chocolate and Roquefort foam.
- Arrange the cacao tuile on top.
Autoriser
Harry Cummins
Harry Cummins grew up in London, moving to Bath in the south-west of England when he was 13 years old. His mother was a single parent, raising her three children by herself. They rarely went out to restaurants, and ate a diet of spaghetti hoops and sausage and mash with frozen peas. But Harry’s Italian grandfather introduced him to a different food culture, Harry was to reacquire this early taste for good food when at 15 he took a job in a restaurant, Harry returned to London for a spell at Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen, where he met Gregory Marchand. In 2011, Harry joined Gregory in Paris for the opening of Frenchie’s Wine Bar. From 2013 to 2018, Harry and his partner, sommelier Laura Vidal, travelled the world with their Paris Popup before finally settling in Marseille and opening their own restaurant, La Mercerie. Their food is technically sophisticated, but bistro-inspired and affordable, with cheese as a pivotal ingredient.
