Ca
South Korea

A former computer scientist, HYUNHEE LEE has found her calling in the world of cakes rather than computers. Trained at Le Cordon Bleu in Paris, she apprenticed at Le Meurice, the patisserie at Le Divellec, then at The Pershinghall Hotel. Returning to Asia, she was an online teacher and consultant in the pastry field before launching “DesserTree” in South Korea. The head of a kitchen producing customised desserts, Hyunhee Lee was named pastry chef of the year in 2015 by the Blue Ribbon Survey

What role does cream play in your baking?
Hyunhee Lee :

In Asian countries, cream has not been very common, both historically and culturally. Cream is a mysterious and wonderful ingredient. It’s true that it’s less difficult to find today compared with the past due to the ease of importing products nowadays. However, it’s still unfamiliar. All cream pastries for me have been kept at a distance, sort of like a childhood memory: “I would like to try it, but I can’t easily get it…” type of situation. Cream is one of the ingredients that I use most often and one which I love. Without it, it’s inconceivable for me to make a pastry dessert.

How do you manipulate cream in your baking?
Hyunhee Lee :

I use it sometimes for ganache or a silky mousse by inserting air, which sometimes enhances the flavours of other ingredients, or serves to neutralise certain tastes. Sometimes I use cream instead of melted butter because it has a lot of fat and goes well in a brioche dough or a sponge. I also like to make cold herbal infusions of tea, coffee or yuzu zest by letting them steep for 24 hours. You can then taste the flavours, they’re clearer and richer. It’s better than a hot infusion.

Cream should be treated very delicately and carefully.
What are its uses?
Hyunhee Lee :

I often use cream when I want to bring a lightness. For example, in a fruit tart a light cream mixed with custard melds the textures and enhances the taste of the fruit. Texture varies depending on the manner in which one incorporates fruit and chocolate. I love a long finish that provides balance between the flavour infused cream and the chocolate.

What is the best dish you've ever created using cream?
Hyunhee Lee :

The Merveilleux. They are modest and simple in appearance, but offer a miraculous harmony in the mouth between the cream and meringue. With cream, you can vary and disseminate so many colours and different tastes

Cream: would you say that you like it a lot, passionately, or are absolutely mad about it?
Hyunhee Lee :

Passionately. It should be treated very delicately and carefully.

What is your favourite cream pastry?
Hyunhee Lee :

The Saint-Honoré. This is the first pastry that I learned in school and it is only made with the purest cream without any additives. I will never forget the rich taste of vanilla, the creamy texture and the silkiness that I experienced that day.

Discover the chef's recipes